Turtlekeeping Tips housing Terrapins Correct Husbandry Part 5?
Hi Turtle WeBBers,
, So lets re-cap…
- First we aquired the tank , of the right measurements (Important)!
- Then we resealed it (if needed)!
- As a feature and support, we constructed an attractive cabinet/stand with overhead canopy!
- Next we added decor to make the tank look more of a natural habitat with an aesthetic appeal !
- In the last turtle- tip we added lighting on autopilot !
Now me hearties, on this post we will look at an aspect that also cannot be overlooked… THE HEATER!
Why….Ed?
Because Doris, you cannot buy little fleece lined overcoats for turtles or scarves for that matter…
"You wouldn't think she was a bio-physicist would you "!
Now, aquarium heaters come in different sizes and wattage's, the latter being a very important factor , the bigger the tank ,the higher the wattage you will need!
EG : For an hundred gallon tank (4ft x 2ft x 2ft), you would need a 300W heater, to comfortably keep the water at a certain temperature!
The temperature in question being 79`c/26`f An heater of a lesser wattage in a tank this size, would struggle to maintain the desired temperature and would therefore burn out !
Eds -TIP : Always double check on the box the heater is packaged in whilst at the store, for a scale of what heater wattage relates to the tank size needed to make sure you have the correct one!
There are two types off internal aquarium heaters…
- A glass tube type with a built-in thermometer which is usually a small knob on the top that you turn until you reach the desired temperature setting, shown down the tube on a centigrade/Fahrenheit scale , also there is a small light indicating when the heater is on, off when water at the desired temp !
- A metal chrome finished tube heater , that works on the exact same principal , except the thermostat control is external with a connection wire leading too the submersed heater !
This is the heater type i personally use and i strongly recommend you do to for two reasons , you can monitor and adjust the settings much more easily, and more importantly when the turtles shell bangs against the tube there will be no breakage … killing the turtle..
*YOU HEARD ME CORRECT, IF THE TUBE BREAKS THE WATER BECOMES LIVE WITH AMPLIFIED ELECTRICITY INSTANTLY KILLING YOUR TURTLE/S *
*ALSO NEVER EVER REMOVE THE HEATER FROM THE WATER WHILST IT IS SWITCHED ON THE SUDDEN TEMP CHANGE WILL MAKE IT EXPLODE!*
Which is why i will not buy the glass variety !!
Below are two examples of the two types of heater..
To the left is the glass type, and to the right is the preferred option the metal tube with external thermostat !
Now the metal type are more expensive at around £ 25-29 /$70-75 but at the risk of your turtles well being i think its a very small price to pay !
*REMEMBER IF YOU CANNOT AFFORD THE ITEMS I RECCOMMEND DON`T HAVE A TURTLE AS YOUR HOBBY, PERIOD!!*
*BE RESPONSIBLE, YOU ARE CARING FOR A LIVE IN THE SAME WAY YOU WANT TO BE CARED FOR !*
As i said in a previous post , about the turtles being cold blooded ,the heater is a very important part of the environment , it doesn't just keep the turtle warm , it provides energy just the same as the sun does in the wild , we do not want the turtle becoming lethargic and drowning !
Lets not forget turtles have to come up for air too the same as we do , and on that note i will discuss the biology of our Webb footed friends in a future post .. you don`t want to miss that !
Its that time turtle groupies, for a nice cup of tea, a couple of biccys , and the next chapter of Eds book read , its a cookery book:
"Ten ways to send a brussel sprout into orbit using a pressure cooker"
WH Smiths £11.99/$29.99 !
Shut it …Doris !
Tune in guys to the next post , its all about my chosen niche ,and i will be outlining my course of action , so put the crash helmet on im taking the brakes off !
TTFN….Ed.
To Be Continued…
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MY Ed WeBBers ARE PRICELESS!
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